Flying into Arequipa gives a sense of the inhospitableness of the landscape. Surrounded by volcanoes and deep gorges, all in a vast desert, it is easy to understand why the relatively benign geography of the valley of Arequipa, and its vegetation provided by the irrigation of the River Chili, attracted its first Spanish settlers. The city of Arequipa was founded, or at least re-founded, on August 15 1540, by Francisco Pizarro’s envoy, and in 1541 the king of Spain gave the city the title of Villa Hermosa – beautiful city.

There are a number of stories as to how Arequipa got its name. Some claim that the Inca general Mayta Capac stopped in the valley and moved by its beauty said’Are quepay’ -’stay here‘. Other versions say that the Aymara Indians living in the valley called it’Ariquipa‘, meaning the place behind the pointed mountain, referring to Misti.

The centre of Arequipa is built out of a unique white volcanic rock, sillar, spewed out of nearby Chachani. This gives the city a majestic aspect, especially around sunset when the changing colours of the sky are reflected in the facades of the buildings. Arequipa is known as’la ciudad blanca’,'the white city’, and may people believe that this is because of the sillar. However, a more sinister explanation, which is probably more accurate, is that the racial purity of its original citizens, thoroughbred Spaniards, is the real reason for the city’s name. Although Arequipa did used to be a stronghold for wealthy citizens of the Old World, this whiteness has long been replaced by a varied hue of skin-tones, with many residents originating from the sierra.

What cannot be denied is the beauty of the city centre. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in December 2000, the city is a wonderful example of the blending of colonial architecture with local conditions. Many of the colonial palaces and houses still stand, despite numerous earthquakes, and can be visited. The churches are particularly beautiful and are a delight to wander round, both inside and out.

Arequipeños like to think of themselves as being separate from, and superior to, the rest of Peru, and much of Arequipa is very traditional and regional. It is even possible to get an Arequipeño passport, although this is no more than regional pride. However, the independence of the city is reflected in its history, which has often opposed itself to directives from Lima. In 1950, students from the Colegio Independencia school went on strike to protest again central government policies. In a march in the Plaza de Armas the police opened fire on the students, killing many. Signs of this are still visible in the clock face of the Cathedral, where a bullet hole from the shooting can be seen.

On June 23 2001, a very strong earthquake rocked the south of Peru, killing over 100 people and causing much material damage. The seaside resort of La Punta near Camaná was completely wiped out by a tidal wave, and 80% of houses in Moquegua suffered damage. In Arequipa, the cathedral lost a tower and many buildings were damaged. This was the strongest earthquake in the south for many, many years. However, exactly how strong depends on the source referred to. International news sources all reported that the earthquake measured around 7.9 on the Richter scale. However, in Peru it was reported to be only 6.9 on the same scale. Why the difference? Apparently, the Peruvian government passed a law some years back that anyone living through an earthquake greater than 7.0 on the Richter scale would have certain debts cancelled. Obviously, an earthquake measuring only 6.9 would not result in such a measure being passed, although this may just be a coincidence, of course.
This independent attitude has dimmed somewhat in recent years as the once-strong economy of Arequipa has suffered. With unemployment rising and people seeing no improvement in their prospects, many are moving to Lima to search for work, or even trying their luck abroad. This would have been unimaginable for most Arequipeños, even during the darkest days of terrorism and hyperinflation.

Arequipa city and towns in the region have spawned a number of renown, and infamous, Peruvian figures, including the writer Mario Vargas Llosa, the former leader of the Shining Path Abimael Guzmán, former president Fernando Belaunde Terry and Vladimiro Montesinos, the leader of Peru’s intelligence service during Alberto Fujimori’s term of office. Montesinos has been attributed with the rise and fall of Fujimori’s reign of power.

In June 2001, Arequipa suffered an earthquake of 7.9 on the Richter scale. This caused serious damage to the centre of the town, with several of the historical buildings affected, including the cathedral, which lost one of its towers. However, the effect on visitors to the city is minimal, and all attractions are open.

Arequipa is a wonderful city to stay for a few days, exploring its beautiful centre and relaxing in the many cafes and bars, enjoying the sunshine. It makes an excellent base for visiting nearby attractions, and should be included on any tour of the south of Peru.

The Colca Canyon was thought to be the world’s deepest canyon until it was discovered that nearby Cotahuasi Canyon is in fact deeper still. Nevertheless, a visit to the Colca Canyon is an incredible experience, not just for the spectacular setting, but also to see the giant condors. These birds, with a wingspan of over 3m and weighing up to 12kg, glide past on the thermals only meters away.

For those wishing to leave the gringo trail, the Cotahuasi Canyon offers some beautiful scenery and superb trekking, and the Valley of the Volcanoes provides a landscape unlike any other. The petroglyphs of Toro Muerto, over 2,000 carved rocks under the desert sun, is an incredible archaeological site visited by few tourists.

Adventure in Arequipa is also easy to find, with plenty of 6,000m-plus mountains and volcanoes easily accessible for climbing, and excellent trekking in the Colca Canyon and in the Cotahuasi Canyon. For those seeking greater thrills, some of the world’s best white-water rafting is possible in the region, through the Colca and Cotahuasi Canyons. For those wanting to ride the rapids without so much danger, good rafting is also found in Majes.