Flying into Arequipa gives a sense of the inhospitableness of the landscape. Surrounded by volcanoes and deep gorges, all in a vast desert, it is easy to understand why the relatively benign geography of the valley of Arequipa, and its vegetation provided by the irrigation of the River Chili, attracted its first Spanish settlers. The city of Arequipa was founded, or at least re-founded, on August 15 1540, by Francisco Pizarro’s envoy, and in 1541 the king of Spain gave the city the title of Villa Hermosa – beautiful city.

There are a number of stories as to how Arequipa got its name. Some claim that the Inca general Mayta Capac stopped in the valley and moved by its beauty said’Are quepay’ -’stay here‘. Other versions say that the Aymara Indians living in the valley called it’Ariquipa‘, meaning the place behind the pointed mountain, referring to Misti.

The centre of Arequipa is built out of a unique white volcanic rock, sillar, spewed out of nearby Chachani. This gives the city a majestic aspect, especially around sunset when the changing colours of the sky are reflected in the facades of the buildings. Arequipa is known as’la ciudad blanca’,'the white city’, and may people believe that this is because of the sillar. However, a more sinister explanation, which is probably more accurate, is that the racial purity of its original citizens, thoroughbred Spaniards, is the real reason for the city’s name. Although Arequipa did used to be a stronghold for wealthy citizens of the Old World, this whiteness has long been replaced by a varied hue of skin-tones, with many residents originating from the sierra.

What cannot be denied is the beauty of the city centre. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in December 2000, the city is a wonderful example of the blending of colonial architecture with local conditions. Many of the colonial palaces and houses still stand, despite numerous earthquakes, and can be visited. The churches are particularly beautiful and are a delight to wander round, both inside and out.

Arequipeños like to think of themselves as being separate from, and superior to, the rest of Peru, and much of Arequipa is very traditional and regional. It is even possible to get an Arequipeño passport, although this is no more than regional pride. However, the independence of the city is reflected in its history, which has often opposed itself to directives from Lima. In 1950, students from the Colegio Independencia school went on strike to protest again central government policies. In a march in the Plaza de Armas the police opened fire on the students, killing many. Signs of this are still visible in the clock face of the Cathedral, where a bullet hole from the shooting can be seen.

On June 23 2001, a very strong earthquake rocked the south of Peru, killing over 100 people and causing much material damage. The seaside resort of La Punta near Camaná was completely wiped out by a tidal wave, and 80% of houses in Moquegua suffered damage. In Arequipa, the cathedral lost a tower and many buildings were damaged. This was the strongest earthquake in the south for many, many years. However, exactly how strong depends on the source referred to. International news sources all reported that the earthquake measured around 7.9 on the Richter scale. However, in Peru it was reported to be only 6.9 on the same scale. Why the difference? Apparently, the Peruvian government passed a law some years back that anyone living through an earthquake greater than 7.0 on the Richter scale would have certain debts cancelled. Obviously, an earthquake measuring only 6.9 would not result in such a measure being passed, although this may just be a coincidence, of course.
This independent attitude has dimmed somewhat in recent years as the once-strong economy of Arequipa has suffered. With unemployment rising and people seeing no improvement in their prospects, many are moving to Lima to search for work, or even trying their luck abroad. This would have been unimaginable for most Arequipeños, even during the darkest days of terrorism and hyperinflation.

Arequipa city and towns in the region have spawned a number of renown, and infamous, Peruvian figures, including the writer Mario Vargas Llosa, the former leader of the Shining Path Abimael Guzmán, former president Fernando Belaunde Terry and Vladimiro Montesinos, the leader of Peru’s intelligence service during Alberto Fujimori’s term of office. Montesinos has been attributed with the rise and fall of Fujimori’s reign of power.

In June 2001, Arequipa suffered an earthquake of 7.9 on the Richter scale. This caused serious damage to the centre of the town, with several of the historical buildings affected, including the cathedral, which lost one of its towers. However, the effect on visitors to the city is minimal, and all attractions are open.

Arequipa is a wonderful city to stay for a few days, exploring its beautiful centre and relaxing in the many cafes and bars, enjoying the sunshine. It makes an excellent base for visiting nearby attractions, and should be included on any tour of the south of Peru.

The Colca Canyon was thought to be the world’s deepest canyon until it was discovered that nearby Cotahuasi Canyon is in fact deeper still. Nevertheless, a visit to the Colca Canyon is an incredible experience, not just for the spectacular setting, but also to see the giant condors. These birds, with a wingspan of over 3m and weighing up to 12kg, glide past on the thermals only meters away.

For those wishing to leave the gringo trail, the Cotahuasi Canyon offers some beautiful scenery and superb trekking, and the Valley of the Volcanoes provides a landscape unlike any other. The petroglyphs of Toro Muerto, over 2,000 carved rocks under the desert sun, is an incredible archaeological site visited by few tourists.

Adventure in Arequipa is also easy to find, with plenty of 6,000m-plus mountains and volcanoes easily accessible for climbing, and excellent trekking in the Colca Canyon and in the Cotahuasi Canyon. For those seeking greater thrills, some of the world’s best white-water rafting is possible in the region, through the Colca and Cotahuasi Canyons. For those wanting to ride the rapids without so much danger, good rafting is also found in Majes.

Feb 3 Festival of Virgen de la Candelaria in Cayma and Characato, where fireworks are set off the night before.

Feb (second half) Carnaval Arequipeño, where a carnival queen is chosen, and there are parades and folkloric dance competitions. Water (and sometimes other things) is thrown on passers by to celebrate.

Mar/Apr The Semana Santa (holy week) celebrations in Arequipa take the form of massive processions in the centre of town, with participants dressed in mourning clothes, in the style of Seville in Spain. On the morning of Easter Sunday, effigies of Judas are burnt in different locations of the city.May 1 Fiesta de la Virgen de Chapi, and many people travel to Chapi to venerate the virgin, who is the most important in the region.

June 24 Día del Characato with bullfights and festivities in the district of Characato.

June 24 Fiesta of San Juan Bautista in Yanahuara.

July 16 Festival of Virgen del Carmen, where groups dance’Los Turkos’, representing the resistance of the Indian population to Spanish domination.

Aug The main celebrations in Arequipa occur in August to mark the founding of the city in 1540. Typically, a dance exhibition, Festidanza, with participants from all over South America, happens. There is an enlarged crafts market at the Fundo El Fierro, and there is an interesting general trade exhibition at the FIA. There are also massive rock concerts at the FIA, featuring musicians from all of Peru and Latin America. The night of the 14th there are firework displays all over the city. On the 15th there is a mass ascent of Misti and a parade around the centre of Arequipa.

Aug 30 Festival of Santa Rosa de Lima in La Tomilla.

Sep 8 Festival of the Virgen de los Remedios in Socabaya.

Oct 8 Fiesta of the Virgen del Rosario, in Yarabamba, Yanahuara and Yura.

Oct 15-19 Feria Agropecuaria in Viraco, with bullfights.

Oct 18 (and most of month) Celebrations for the Señor de los Milagros, similar to the celebrations in Lima, although on a less grand scale. The faithful dress in mauve for the month, and there are processions carrying the statue of the Lord throughout the city, with the streets decorated with flower petals.

Nov For the whole month guaguas (manjar-filled pastries) are eaten.

Nov 2 Day of the dead, when deceased relatives are visited in cemeteries.

Alpaca is a soft, warm wool, not unlike cashmere. Better than alpaca is baby alpaca, the first shearing of a baby’s wool, and is softer and warmer than alpaca, but is more expensive. The best of all, and probably the most expensive wool in the world, is that of the vicuña. Until recently it was illegal to shear vicuña wool, as the vicuña was nearly hunted to extinction in the 1960s, but under tight control this law has been slightly relaxed in recent years. Vicuña wool is the finest in the world, having a diameter of 11-13 microns, as opposed to 30 microns for sheep wool, 17-19 microns for alpaca and 16 microns for cashmere. A scarf made of vicuña wool costs upwards of $400. Recently, wool from the guanaco, another relative of the llama, has begun to be used in the production of clothing. This is between alpaca and vicuña in quality. Llama wool is not used in the production of clothing, as when it gets wet is gives out an awful odour.

There are many places selling alpaca clothing. Crafts stores sell cheap, generally low-quality jumpers and other items, although these are often mixed with lambs’ wool. There are more upmarket shops in the cloisters of the Compañía church on Morán, ½ block from the Plaza de Armas, and in the Pasaje de la Catedral. Alpawool, at Santa Catalina 116, has good quality products. The best items are from Grupo Inca, the only company in the world allowed to work with vicuña wool, with high quality, although expensive, clothing. They sell in their Alpaca 111 shops at Zela 105 and in the cloisters of the Compañía church. Their factory shop in Tahuaycani has a small zoo with llamas, alpacas, vicuñas and guanacos on show. Grupo Inca also has shops in Cusco, Lima, the US and South Korea.

Crafts
A good crafts market is the Fundo El Fierro next to the San Francisco Church, especially in August when many extra stalls are set up. Not found elsewhere are the woven alpaca carpets, typical of the Cotahuasi area. Other craft markets include the one in the Portal de Flores, and crafts are also found in the Comercial market in Mercaderes. There are many craft shops on Santa Catalina and in the Pasaje de la Catedral.

Jewellery
Much gold and silver jewellery is imported from Italy, and is therefore slightly more expensive than in some other countries. However, excellent reproductions of Inca and other pre-Hispanic jewellery can be found. Oro Pesa, in the Panorámico shopping centre and Oro Fino in the cloisters of La Compañía, have some very fine examples. Try the Comercial market next door to the Panorámico for cheap 14-karat gold-plated jewellery.

Leather
Arequipa used to have a strong leather industry, and although this is no longer the case, many good-quality leather items can be found. Pedro P Diaz, in Puente Bolognese, has a good selection, and Eduardo Rios in the Panorámico shopping centre specialises in leather clothing, which will be made to order at reasonable prices.

Antiques

There are a few antique shops in Santa Catalina selling colonial items. However, these are expensive. There are also a number of shops selling reproduction Cusqueña school paintings at reasonable prices. Bear in mind that it is illegal to take originals out of the country, so do get a certificate stating that it is a copy.

Chocolate

Not really an item to take home, but the chocolate at La Ibérica is excellent, and there are some items for sale that make good presents.

Supermarkets

Most Arequipeños still do their shopping in markets (see below), so there is little need for large supermarkets. However, there are a number of smaller supermarkets offering most things that are needed. These tend to be more expensive than markets, but are more convenient. El Super has two branches in the centre, with a reasonable range of products. One is on the Plaza de Armas and the other is on Piérola. Franco’s, in Yanahuara, is Arequipa’s biggest supermarket, but still not huge. If you are after a particular brand or are looking for something difficult to find, this is your best bet.

Markets

Markets are central to life in Arequipa, and almost anything can be bought in a market. Most Arequipeños still do food shopping at markets rather than supermarkets, and the selection of fruits and vegetables is wonderful. Also, a number of markets selling everything from plastic plants to CD-RW drives tend to be where most Arequipeños go shopping for other things. San Camilo market, on San Camilo, is a large covered market selling food, and it also has a good selection of flowers and small number of crafts. It is in a dangerous area, so keep your eyes open. Siglo 20 is a market of small stallholders selling just about everything. If you need something difficult to get hold of, chances are that you will be able to find it here.

Shopping centres and clothes stores

Mercaderes is the main shopping street, and most of the good quality shops are found there. The El Panorámico shopping centre, on the second block of Mercaderes, has a number of small shops selling a large range of items. La Uruguaya, on the first block of Mercaderes, is a relatively large department store, with some good quality clothing available. Estilos, on the third block of Mercaderes, is another department store, with a wider range of items than La Uruguaya. However, the quality of the clothing is not as good. Frankie and Ricky’s (Jerusalén 109) has good-quality clothing made from organically-grown Peruvian pima cotton, one of the best in the world.

Books and maps

There are no shops that sell English-language books, and the small number of bookshops are very expensive. A much cheaper alternative is to buy books from the numerous second-hand bookshops, which have a reasonably well-stocked range of Spanish-language books, and the occasional book in English or other languages. Maps can be bought from most librerías (which are not bookshops but stationers).

Photography

There are a large number of shops offering photo development. Most places are one-hour and the quality is not great. Among the best is Photo Chela on Santo Domingo, which also sells a good selection of Kodak print and slide film. The Fuji shop on Palacio Viejo has possibly the best developing in Arequipa, at good prices, but as the photos are sent to Lima for development it takes two days. This shop also sells a good range of Fuji films, including slide film.

Even if you are not going as far as the canyon itself, there are several places on the way that make for an interesting visit from Arequipa. These include the petroglyphs at Toro Muerto, which are over 5,000 etched rocks in the desert. There is also good, but not difficult, rafting at Majes, two hours from Arequipa, making a nice day trip.